Historically, the North-West Frontier Province (N.W.F.P.) has always been an important area due to its strategic locale. The Afghan and the British Governments agreed in 1893 on delineating the Durand Line which has served, since then, as border between Pakistan and Afghanistan.
The N.W.F.P.'s borders touched or are close to those of China, the Tajikistan and the disputed territory of the state of Jammu and Kashmir in the north and Afghanistan to the west all along the mountains and highlands from the Pamirs to the rugged terrain of South Waziristan.
The area comprising the province has a rich past. Its barren hills and passes have seen many famous conquerors and adventurers, like Mahmood of Ghazni, Alexander the Great, Taimur, Emperor Babar, Nadir Shah and Ahmed Shah Abdali.
Its snow-capped peaks and lush green valleys of unusual beauty attract tourists and mountaineers from far and wide while its art and architecture is not less known than the historic Khyber Pass.
Its climate varies from very cold (Chitral in the north) to very hot in places like D.I. Khan.
Once the cradle of Gandhara civilization, the area is now known for its devout Muslims who jealously guard their religion and culture and the way of life which they have been following for centuries.
In 1901, a province by the name of N.W.F.P., was created in place of the buffer zone and was divided into the 'settled' and 'tribal' areas. The tribal area in now being administrated by the Federal Government under a separate administrative system, while the 'settled' areas now constitute the North-West Frontier Province which enjoys a lot of autonomy like all other provinces of the country. It covers an area of 74,521 sq. km. According to the 1998 census, the total population of N.W.F.P. was approximately 14 million out of whom 52% are males and 48% females. The density of population is 187 per sq. km and the intercensal change of population is of about 30 percent.
N.W.F.P. shares various common characteristics with other areas and provinces of the country, but the consciousness for freedom, patriotism, courage and respect for Islamic values of its people make NWFP a distinct socio-physiographic region which could be divided into two zones: the northern one extending from the ranges of the Hindukush to the borders of Peshawar basin; and the southern one extending from Peshawar to the Derajat basin. The northern zone is cold and snowy in winters with heavy rainfall and pleasant summers with the exception of Peshawar basin which is hot in summer and cold in winter. It has moderate rainfall. The southern zone is raid with hot summers and relatively cold winters and scantly rainfall.
NWFP with its capital at Peshawar, comprises five administrative divisions, namely, Peshawar, Kohat, Hazara, Dera Ismail Khan and Malakand. Peshawar Division consists of the districts of Peshawar and Mardan: Kohat Division comprises the districts of Kohat and Karak; Hazara, those of Abbottabad, Mansehra and Kohistan: Dera Ismail Khan, the districts of D.I. Khan and Bannu; and Malakand, the districts of Swat, Dir and Chitral and the Malakand Agency.
The economy of the province is based on its agriculture, industry and mineral resources. In all these sectors, the resources are limited, but efforts are being made to boost its economy by tapping the available resources to the maximum extent.
The biggest tourist attraction is the historic Khyber Pass which is 17.7 km from Peshawar City and extends to Afghan territory and now forms part of the main Asian Highway. This legendary gateway to the South-Asian subcontinent is more than 35 km long. For more details on Khyber Pass Click Here.
About 13 km from Mardan on the road to Swat, it presents a finely preserved specimen of true Gandhara architecture which evolved with the coming of the Greeks in the region.
In the southeastern outskirts of Peshawar city, lie the ruins of the city of Purushpura, which commemorates the conversion of King Kanishka to Buddhism.
In this picturesque valley, located near the headquarters city of Saidu Sharif, excavations at Udigram and Mingora depict the life and teachings of Buddha. The Udigram finds have also some traces of earlier periods around the time of Alexander's invasion. At Saidu Sharif, there is a small museum mostly dispalying relics of Gandhara art.
Some 30 km north of Peshawar is the modern urban settlement of Charsadda near which lie the ruins of the historic city of Pushkalavati, the pre-Kushan capital of Gandhara, which was captured by Alexander in 324 BC.
An impressive landmark in Peshawar city, the fort, was originally built by Emperor Babur. It was destroyed by Afghans, rebuilt by Humayun, captured by the Roshanis led by Bayzid Ansari, reconquered by Emperor Akbar, surrendered by Hari Singh Nalwa, and finally renovated by the British in 1849.
Located in Peshawar city, it is a magnificent mosque built by Mahabat Khan, a Mughal Governor of Kabul in 1570 AD.
Located near Akora Khattak, off the main Peshwara - Rawalpindi road, is the tomb of the poet Khushal Khan Khattak who fought the Mughals. The tombs of Shah Ismail Shaheed and Syed Ahmed Barelvi, the great freedom-fighters of the subcontinent, are in Balakot in Mansehra distric.
It is the valley of honey-mooners, of romance, of natural beauty and legend, which combine to endow Kaghan in Mansehra district with a charm unmatched throughout the world. High mountains with their lofty peaks and lakes, including the famous Saiful Muluke lake, make the valley tourist's paradise. The valley has many suitable sites for hiking and hand-gliding.
For more detailed information on Kaghan valley CLICK HERE.
At a height of 1,281 meters about 13 km south of Saidu Sharif in Swat, Marghuzar is a beauty spot featured prominently by the White Palace of Swat rulers. On the 2,745 meters high plateau behind lies the temple of Ram Takht believed by Hindus to be the throne of Ramachandra. According to the legend, Buddha also sat on one of the rocks in the temple and the second Buddha was born here.
Situated at the height of 1,328 meters, 56 km north-east of Saidu Sharif on the Kalam Road on the bank of river Swat, Maydan offers a superb view of the countryside and has excellent hiking and camping sites. About 10 km north of Maydan is Bahrain which offers a wonderful view of natural waterfalls and a lovely view of snow-clad mountains. About 60 km north of Bahrain and at an altitude of 2,074 meters is Kalam where Ushu and Utrat rivers meet to form the Swat river. Snow-covered peaks, dense forests, wild flowers and green meadows surround Kalam, while the surroundings abound in wildlife including mountain goats, fowls, pheasants and partridges. Not far from Kalam are the valleys of Utrot and Gabral which offer breath-taking natural beauty.
A few kilometers from Saidu Sharif, Malam Jabba is the place where the first skiing resort of the country is being developed with the help of the Australian Government.
Situated at an average height of 2,135 meters, Ayubia has a chair-lift at Ghora Dhaka which attracts visitors to enjoy scenic beauty of pine hills. The nearby hill station of Nathiagali, Changlagali, Khanspur, Khairagali and Kala Bagh present an unpolluted environment and scenic beauty.
Located in Chitral, Kalash Valley, the homeland of Kalash tribe, consists of three smaller valleys of Bombaret, Barrir and Rumbur. The Kalash are fascinating people with their pagan rituals and taboos.
To the south of Chitral is Garam Chashma, the headquarters of Latkoh tehsil, famous for a large number of boiling sulphur springs which have a healing effect on skin diseases.
World's biggest earth and rock-filled dam over Indus, Tarbela lies about 40 km off Rawalpindi - Peshawar highway and is worth a visit.
Other hill stations include Abbottabad, Thandiani, Parachinar, Cherat and Samana.
Gandhara art, which was largely expressed through sculpture, is the valuable heritage of NWFP. In the Gandhara school ofart, creation of the Buddha, after nearly 500 years of his death, means search for an ideal human being who is above the common man, but is not a god, who ultimately aims at bringing human beings under the influence of his moral teachings. The Buddhist architecture consisted of stupas and monastic establishments which one finds in Julian near Taxila.
Among visual arts, Persian miniatures and calligraphy can be seen in old buildings. Contemporary paintings still carry Persian influence under which calligraphy of the Holy Quran is taking the shape of a popular art. The Abasin Arts Council and the Department of Fine Arts of Peshawar University are promoting visual arts.
Among the crafts , NWFP possesses a great wealth of skills particularly in carpet-making, textiles, embroidery, woodwork, pottery, metalwork, lacquer work, jewelry and all sorts of small-scale arms and ammunition which has developed in Darra Adamkhel in the tribal areas.
Life in the area started about 20,000 BC, as the Sanghao cave of Mardan district shows use of stone tools. Gradually, primitive agriculture took shape in these valleys, but about 2,000 BC, Aryans invaded this area and introduced metal. Towards sixth century BC, the tribes of Gandhara who had so far been leading independent tribal life united themselves into a kingdom under King Pushkala Sakti. They introduced irrigation. Social life was improved by creating village councils called 'Sabha' with village elders as its members, who used to settle all the disputes as is done currently under the 'Jirga' system. A higher council called Samiti was also introduced for implementation of king's orders. In 331 BC, Alexander the Great invaded the area. From third century BC, onward, introduction of Buddhism led to new social developments. Also new people like, Greeks, Scythians, Parthians, Kushans, Huns and Turks came and settled here.
In seventh century AD, the socio-political pattern and economy were shattered once again by the invasion and takeover by Hindu-Turkish rulers. Again in the 8th century AD, Afghans took-over in the wake of Muslim invasion. By that time, however, urban settlements had come into being due to improvement in agriculture, promotion of local handicrafts and participation of Gandhara in the international trade. Road system had also developed to the extent that routes from China and India passed through Gandhara for going onwards to Central Asia and Europe.
At the end of 7th century AD, the economy of Gandhara stood shattered. By the 10th century AD, socio-political pattern had changed completely. The Hindu-Turkish rulers known as Hindu Shahis had gone into hill forts. Now, the Muslim rulers from Ghazni and Ghor started invading the area, while in the 16th century AD, the Mughals coming through Khyber Pass, established themselves in India and set up an outpost in Peshawar with Kabul. The Mughals had, however, their attention concentrated on India and tribal system came into practice in this area once again. Later in the 19th century AD, Sikhs were ruling this area. The British then came to rule the area upto 1947 when it got independence as a part of Muslim state of Pakistan.
This brief historical account proves only one thing, that this area remained transitional in cultural formation due to which the culture that evolved formed pluralistic patterns, however, drawing heavily upon Gandhara and Muslim civilizations. Therefore, the folklores, the dresses, the ornaments and the tribal pattern of living - all represent the same tradition.
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